Fit Tutorial: How to do a Small Bust Amendment

For the Springe Jumpsuit and Springe Dress Sewing Patterns

The Springe Jumpsuit Sewing Pattern and the Springe Dress Sewing Pattern are drafted for a sewing cup B, which means that there is a 5cm or 2 inch difference between the high bust and full bust measurement. If you have a larger difference, then you might find that you need to do a full bust amendment to get the best fit.

How do I know if I need an SBA?

The difference between your full bust and high bust measurements is less than 2 inches.
Your waist measurement is in a higher size than your bust measurement.
You find that fitted garments are usually loose or gape at your bust.

To adjust the sewing pattern, you will need:

tape measure
scissors
scrap paper
tape

To make the adjustment to the sewing pattern, follow steps 1-9 below. The method is the same for all versions of the jumpsuit sewing pattern and dress sewing pattern.

This diagram shows where to mark the lines on the cap sleeve version of the pattern. — **This diagram shows where to mark the lines on the cap sleeve version of the sewing pattern.**

STEP 1: Mark the stitchline at the armscye by drawing a line 1.5cm in from the edge of the pattern. Then mark Line A by drawing a line from the bustpoint to the side seam. — **STEP 1:** Mark the stitchline at the armscye by drawing a line 1.5cm in from the edge of the sewing pattern. Then mark Line A by drawing a line from the bustpoint to the side seam.

STEP 2: Draw Line B from the bustpoint to hem, parrallel to the grainline. — **STEP 2:** Draw Line B from the bustpoint to hem, parrallel to the grainline.

STEP 3: Draw line C from the bustpoint to the armscye. — **STEP 3:** Draw line C from the bustpoint to the armscye.

STEP 4: Cut through Line B, starting at the hem, going to the bustpoint and then pivoting into Line C. Cut as far as the armscye stitch line. Then cut a little notch at the armscye seam allowance (where Line C meets it) to create a hinge. — **STEP 4:** Cut through Line B, starting at the hem, going to the bustpoint and then pivoting into Line C. Cut as far as the armscye stitch line. Then cut a little notch at the armscye seam allowance (where Line C meets it) to create a hinge.

STEP 5: Cut through Line A from the side seam to the bustpoint. — **STEP 5:** Cut through Line A from the side seam to the bustpoint.

STEP 6: Divide into two, the amount that you would like to reduce the bust by. Then draw a line this distance away from and parallel to Line B. This is your reduction line. — **STEP 6:** Divide into two, the amount that you would like to reduce the bust by. Then draw a line this distance away from and parallel to Line B. This is your reduction line.

STEP 7: Adjust your pattern so that Line B lines up with the reduction line. Tape Line C in place. — **STEP 7:** Adjust your pattern so that Line B lines up with the reduction line. Tape Line C in place.

STEP 8: Adjust Line A so that the two edges meet together exactly (as it was before you cut into the line) and tape in place. Then tape Line B in place with the pattern overlapping. — **STEP 8:** Adjust Line A so that the two edges meet together exactly (as it was before you cut into the line) and tape in place. Then tape Line B in place with the sewing pattern overlapping.

STEP 9: Trim the lower section of the hem, to create a smooth line. The gathered section which is between the 2 notches, will now be slightly smaller. Your pattern is now ready to be toiled! — **STEP 9:** Trim the lower section of the hem, to create a smooth line. The gathered section which is between the 2 notches, will now be slightly smaller. Your sewing pattern is now ready to be toiled!